While new, fancy cookbooks with shiny pages and full-color photography remain ensconced on the living room shelves, those old wire- or plastic-combed collections remain closer at hand, at the edge of the counter or in a handy hutch. Their covers are often plainly decorated by someone associated with the book, or a duplicate of other covers offered by one of several fundraising printer companies that served the middle United States over the course of the middle and later 20th century.

Church and community cookbooks have become part of our local culture. Every small town has a sampling, usually from whatever congregations were nearby. They were put together to raise money for functions or buildings and they were bestsellers, in that everyone in town ended up with one. When it wasn’t a church, it was a school or a club or a gathering of friends who put together these tomes that were quick and easy to get printed and which were all but eternal.

Stories in the Recipes

You can tell by some of the entries in these books who the movers and the shakers were. Some cookbooks had a single entry from each person who contributed, but more often there would be one or two superstars that would stand out, proud of their cooking and happy to share. Or, like when my own mom put together Cornerstone Cookery, published by the St. Vincent’s Infirmary Employee Council in 1984, about a third of the recipes ended up coming from my own family when submissions were scarce.

What each and every one of these books did, though, was capture a moment in space and time in a way few other objects could. In an age before the internet, these volumes catalogued the food we all ate from day to day. The more extravagant recipes, usually for desserts or highly regarded holiday entrees, showed what we ate when we were celebrating. The more humble recipes, with their creative instructions on how to assemble a peanut butter and jelly sandwich or what to do while you’re waiting for something to cook, show us humor and the good nature of the people sharing the recipes they know.

Flavors from the Past

In-between, you get a capsule of history particular to the congregation or area in question, the dishes that are most likely to have been served at the table, the things that one generation didn’t want the next generation to forget. Some of those dishes, like the regional Arkansas dish known as Tallerine (usually pronounced TA-lur-EE-nee), all but evaporated by the end of the 20th century. The ground beef and noodles entree usually contained black olives and cheese, along with some sort of additional ingredient, which included everything from small green peas to green bell pepper, diced onions or even sliced tomatoes. It appeared to be a precursor to the commercial Hamburger Helper, and while prevalent under a host of different spellings in mid-century Arkansas cookbooks, all but disappeared by the mid- to late-1980s. 

There were also concoctions, usually salads or side dishes, that were popular back then but would be undesired today, like congealed salads with a base of Jell-O or any variety of pea-and-mayo mixes. Items utilizing SPAM can still be found in cookbooks today, but canned brothers Vienna Sausages and potted meat are frowned upon and excluded in 21st century collections. For young homemakers looking for ways to change up meals in an age when canned foods were on the shelves at their local grocery while convenience foods like TV dinners and frozen pizzas were not, combining what was easily available to create something that stood out was paramount.

A Taste of Arkansas History

Over the past several years, I have been collecting a variety of Arkansas cookbooks, finding them at thrift stores and in the bins at Goodwill, receiving them from families who are rehoming them when loved ones pass, and taking in duplicates from libraries with multiple copies. In my spare time and on days when the weather is too angry to travel, I sit down and read through them, noting common elements to time and regions.

In 2021, I published a cookbook based on these Arkansas community collections, Arkansas Cookery: Retro Recipes from The Natural State. In its 103 recipes gathered from cookbooks from between 1935 and 1985, I hoped to offer a picture of cooking in mid-century Arkansas, what people were eating at home. These were most of the 107 recipes I’d culled from some of those many cookbooks, showcasing recipes that I found through the era. I took them with me to the Writers’ Colony at Dairy Hollow in Eureka Springs, and over the course of 12 days recreated them, redacting recipes with modern equivalents (for instance, noting that the tabs of cream cheese available in the 1950s was three ounces, compared to the 8 ounce block offered today) and photographing them for posterity.

Some items, such as Green Rice, are very popular even today with home cooks in the Arkansas Delta. Others, like Salmon Croquettes and Tomato Aspic, are very rarely seen today. And then there are things like Guacamole Salad, Hush Puppies, and Fried Zucchini that are known worldwide today.

When I research these recipes, I tend to stop at the year 2000. It’s a nice, even point to cut from, and a moment in time when the internet was just really becoming ubiquitous in homes around the world. The combination of the World Wide Web, retailers like Amazon and Walmart, and the sudden availability to anyone, anywhere foodstuffs that had previously been hard to find – like ube sweet potatoes from Japan or besan flour from India – changed our food culture irreversibly, almost overnight. I plan to continue the research and create more compilations as I learn more and open up these veritable time capsules of Arkansas food.

Date Nut Bread

Folks here in Arkansas, particularly in rural communities, would have access to certain foods certain times of the year. When it came to nuts, what you had stored back was usually reliant on what was available close by. The nuts in this recipe could be pecans, walnuts, or hickory nuts. Dates would come dried, like raisins and prunes (dried plums), and could be stored for a long time. Everything in this recipe from Mrs. Jewell Teater, originally printed in a 1954 cookbook by the Women’s Society of Christian Service at Asbury Methodist Church in Little Rock, could conceivably be in the pantry or fridge, ready to whip up – and let me tell you what, it was certainly a wonderful thing to enjoy, with an almost chocolatey consistency and a soft mouthfeel. I love this best the next day, sliced and toasted with butter – and yes, I substitute butter for the margarine.

Green Pea Salad

While it’s not much to look at, this green pea salad was common at gatherings in rural Arkansas when I was a kid in the 1970s. This version appears in Favorite Recipes from Clay County Kitchens (second printing, 1955) and is attributed to Mrs. Otto Elsass, who was part of the Glaub Lone Holly chapter of the Clay County Council of Homemaker Demonstration Clubs.

Kat Robinson is Arkansas’s original culinary traveler, with three PBS programs, thousands of articles, and 13 books on food in The Natural State to her credit. The Emmy-nominated documentary host and food historian is currently working on a history of Arkansas barbecue.

Follow Kat: Facebook | Instagram | www.TieDyeTravels.com

The post Church and Community Cookbooks: Keeping Arkansas Culinary History Alive appeared first on Arkansas Strong.

Amid the towering Blue Cross Blue Shield, Regions, and Simmons Bank buildings that stretch across downtown Little Rock, stands a building on South Gaines Street whose history and significance far surpass the multi-story structures surrounding it—First Missionary Baptist Church. To those unfamiliar, passing by this Gothic Revival-style church, with its colorful mosaic windows next to the brick-layered J.P. Robinson Education and Fellowship Hall, might not prompt much reflection. However, upon closer inspection, the church reveals itself to be a vibrant kaleidoscope of Black American history, filled with hope, triumph, and resilience. This energy fuels the nearly 180-year-old community of worshippers, making it one of the oldest Black churches in Arkansas.

First Missionary Baptist Church at 7th and Gaines streets in downtown Little Rock celebrates 180 years. Photograph by Ebony Blevins.

The church’s roots trace back to 1845, two decades before the passage of the 13th Amendment, thanks to its founder, Reverend Wilson Brown, a self-taught former slave-minister. Driven by a deep desire to spread the teachings of the Bible to both free Blacks and enslaved people in the area, Reverend Brown boldly approached his enslaver, Major Fields, a Baptist minister, with the idea of establishing what they would call the First Negro Baptist Church. At a time when lynchings, brutal beatings, and inhumane treatment were commonplace, it took immense courage for a slave to challenge a slave owner, even one with the title of “minister.” This act of bravery laid the foundation for the church’s ethos of justice and courage, which has guided it for nearly a century and a half.

Even without a physical structure, worshippers gathered in various locations until May 2, 1847, when they began meeting regularly at a brush arbor at the corner of Tenth and Spring Streets in Little Rock. The brush arbor remained their meeting site until the church’s permanent building was erected on land donated by Chester Ashley in 1882. This provided a lasting home for the congregation, a testament to the enduring principles of justice established by Reverend Brown during his initial conversations with Major Fields—well before the abolition of slavery and his eventual 25-year tenure with the church.

The ethos that Reverend Brown established continued to evolve through each succeeding leader of the church and the efforts to grow its congregation. Reverend Reuben White, who followed Brown, expanded the ministry by founding Mount Pleasant—another church birthed out of First Missionary in Little Rock—and also served as a member of the Arkansas Legislature. The next leader, Reverend J.P. Robinson, who served for 50 years, transformed First Missionary into a church dedicated to service, organizing foreign missionary trips, and establishing what became the largest Sunday School in Little Rock at the time. Under his leadership, the church grew into one of the city’s first Black megachurches in the post-WWII era.

The fifth reverend, Reverend Roland Smith, succeeded Reverend E.C. Dyer, and saw the church as a platform for change during a tumultuous period in Little Rock’s history. The church became an anchor for the African American community in the wake of the 1957 Central High School integration crisis, as national demands for equal rights intensified. Reverend Smith, who had close ties to civil rights leader Dr. Martin Luther King Jr., was also deeply involved in Little Rock’s political landscape. He eventually became the only African American leader to address the Arkansas Legislature about the horrors of segregation. Each reverend contributed to advancing the church’s vision, adding a crucial piece to the mosaic that represented the church’s spirit.

Under Reverend Smith’s leadership, the church became a beacon for civil rights in Little Rock, drawing the attention of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.. In the wake of his incarceration in Birmingham, King wrote his famous “Letter from Birmingham Jail,” and was inspired by the church’s commitment to the cause. As a result, King agreed to speak at First Missionary’s 118th anniversary on April 28, 1963. The news of King’s visit stirred the same hostile sentiments that had fueled the abuse of Elizabeth Eckford during the Little Rock Nine protests, and threats of violence quickly surfaced. Despite these threats, the Little Rock police refused to provide protection.

In the face of these challenges, the church took matters into their own hands. The men of the church provided security for King during his visit, while the women offered him food and laundry services, creating a nurturing environment of love, protection, and service. These acts of solidarity became a testament to the strength of the church and the power of community. When King delivered his speech, over 600 people gathered, spilling out of the church and into the streets. His message ignited a wave of hope and action, not just in the church, but throughout the city.

Renee Hubbard, church trustee and lifelong member. Photograph by Ebony Blevins.

“It shined a light on everything we needed to be concerned about—how we could be catalysts in the church for what could be corrected… for us to be involved in the civil rights movement,” says Renee Hubbard, the current trustee of the church, reflecting on witnessing King’s speech at the age of 13. Hubbard, now 74, is a lifelong member with an established familial legacy in the church. “Every time I think about it, I get goosebumps, like I’m there again.” Just four months later, King would deliver one of the most iconic speeches in American history—“I Have a Dream.”

The church’s legacy also attracted the attention of then-Governor Bill Clinton, who spoke at its 145th anniversary just months before announcing his candidacy for president. Clinton paid tribute to the church for its significant role in shaping post-Jim Crow Arkansas, a future that many members had fought for their entire lives. The church’s history also intersects with the broader struggle for African American advancement, as W.E.B. Du Bois and Booker T. Washington had debated the future of Black Americans. Washington even spoke at the church on October 16, 1913, the Sunday after the grand opening of the Mosaic Templars of America building.

All of this history can be seen vividly through the various artifacts and pieces of history in First Missionary Baptist Church, a testament to the church’s evolution through the nearly two centuries. The vibrant stained-glass windows not only illuminate the interior but reflect biblical themes and pivotal moments in the church’s legacy, including its active role in the Civil Rights Movement. Items such as photographs from Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. ‘s 1963 visit, commemorative plaques honoring events like the Little Rock Nine crisis, and the church’s bell—dating back to 1894—highlights how resilient the community truly is. The original pulpit and pews have witnessed nearly 180 years of sermons, struggles, and triumphs, standing as symbols of unwavering faith and community resilience. Each element within the church tells a story of a legacy built on justice, love, and spiritual perseverance, carrying forward the mission laid out by Reverend Wilson Brown in 1845.

These remnants scattered around the church serve as powerful reminders, not only of the church’s legacy but also of the progress made by the Black community in the United States. Some artifacts were created before Black soldiers could enlist to fight for their country, others before the Civil Rights Act of 1965, and still others before the inauguration of Barack Obama, the first Black president of the United States, in 2008. As you walk on the carpet, worn by both the oppressed and the free, the hopeful civil rights fighters and the prestigious university graduates, the church’s four walls seem to expand, encompassing the very spirit of the movement—the alignment of our nation to the true teachings of Christ.

The church’s current pastor, Reverend Cameron Mitchell, a recent graduate of Vanderbilt University, now carries the weight of this dense legacy as the body of Christ. Hubbard says he connects the church’s rich history to modern-day struggles. Through his sermons, the essence of Reverend Mitchell’s ministry echoes the words of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.: “I see the church as the body of Christ, and the body of Christ cannot be a tool for oppression. It must be a liberating force.” (A Testament of Hope, 1986).

As the nation grapples with a regression toward bigotry and hate, it is crucial to distinguish between the teachings of a figure like Jesus and the current tense political environment plagued by Machiavellian leaders who declare themselves “God’s chosen instrument to rescue America.” Some even go as far as to claim divine intervention during tragedies where their supporters are killed in the leader’s proximity, but they survive: “I was saved by God to make America great again.”

In the highly conservative state of Arkansas, which overwhelmingly ranks number 5 out of all 50 states for religiosity, there seems to be a growing cognitive dissonance on the true teachings of the gospel. Those who once preached purity now wholeheartedly support serial adulterers. Churchgoers who can recite Ephesians 4:31-32 by heart now find inspiration in a man who ran an entire campaign promising vengeance against his perceived enemies. In places where the love of one’s neighbor is embedded in religious practice, deep-seated prejudice is often cloaked in the rhetoric of being a vessel for the gospel.

The contradictions and paradoxes of hate seem more pronounced than ever, yet the history of First Missionary Baptist Church reminds us that these paradoxes have long been present. “We’ve seen it all,” says Hubbard. From Baptist minister Major Fields—who “owned” his fellow brothers and sisters in Christ—to the threats of bombings and violence from those who gathered around burning crosses, the fact that a Black church had to be established in the first place due to the segregation of the church itself is a stark reminder that our collective destiny has often been clouded by our irrational humanity.

As we sit alone at night, contemplating the cruelty that has replaced decorum across the country, we might ask: Where do we go from here? Having witnessed both the triumphs and atrocities of the civil rights era, as well as the present-day regressions, Hubbard reflects on the civil rights struggle in the city: “As great as the pain and agony were, the passion and resilience were much stronger.” In this tumultuous moment of American history, we need stories like that of First Missionary Baptist Church—stories of justice, stories of resilience—reminding us of how seemingly impossible victories over hate were somehow achieved. These battles have been fought before, and they have been won.

Through the infinite well of love that extends far beyond the walls of First Missionary, we find the strength to persist in our own struggles. The resilience of this church and its people shows us that even in the darkest times, love and faith can endure, empowering us to continue fighting for a more just and compassionate world.

The church is celebrating its 180th anniversary on April 25, 2025. To celebrate the exhilarating history and future of this church, make a donation to help restoration efforts.

Photography by Ebony Blevins.

SOURCES

1. “First Missionary Baptist Church at 180 | Legacies & Lunch” – YouTube
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=stey1wn1lJ4
2. New Growth Springs from Old at Historic Black Church – AY Magazine
   https://aymag.com/new-growth-springs-from-old-at-historic-black-church/
3. First Missionary Baptist Church – Little Rock
   https://www.littlerock.com/directory/first-missionary-baptist-church/
4. First Missionary Baptist Church in Little Rock, Arkansas (1845) – BlackPast
   https://www.blackpast.org/african-american-history/first-missionary-baptist-church-little-rock-arkansas-1845/
5. $3,500 Grant to Help Little Rock Church Preserve History – Arkansas Online
   https://www.arkansasonline.com/news/2022/mar/05/3500-grant-to-help-little-rock-church-preserve/#:~:text=First%20Missionary%20Baptist%20Church%20in%20Little%20Rock%20has%20received%20a,by%20Martin%20Luther%20King%20Jr.
6. Mosaic Templars Cultural Center recognizes vital Black churches that survived the test of time – Northwest Arkansas Online
   https://www.nwaonline.com/news/2022/dec/20/historic-congregations/
7. Evangelicals made a Bad Trade – The Atlantic
   https://www.theatlantic.com/politics/archive/2025/01/evangelicals-trump/681450/
8. “I Have Decided to Stick with Love. Hate is Too Great a Burden to Bear.”
   https://www.11alive.com/article/news/history/mlk-quotes-to-remember/85-f3b29005-e696-4fef-b2e9-c26f229406cd
9. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.: “I see the church as the body of Christ, and the body of Christ cannot be a tool for oppression. It must be a liberating force.” (A Testament of Hope, 1986).
10. How Religious is Your State? – Pew Research
    https://www.pewresearch.org/short-reads/2016/02/29/how-religious-is-your-state/?state=alabama
11. A special thanks to Renee Hubbard, whose guidance and testaments through our conversation not only cultivated the information of this article, but the essence and of the piece as well.
    
    

“My name is MJ Ferguson, and I am studying both African American Studies and Political Science at the University of Arkansas. My passions include writing, research, community service, political activism, and making music! I am a board member for UARK’s Volunteer Action Center, an executive for UARK’s Residents Interhall Congress, a contributing columnist for the Arkansas Traveler, a research assistant manager for UARK’s African American Studies research team (UART), and an upcoming research intern for the University of Michigan’s Summer Research Opportunity Program.” Follow MJ: LinkedIn | Substack | Instagram

The post Black History in Motion: Profound Lessons of Love from First Missionary Baptist Church appeared first on Arkansas Strong.